Philadelphia Story: Our Guide to ALA's Midwinter Meeting

In his famous dig at Philadelphia, W. C. Fields said he'd prefer a grave to spending even one more minute in the city of his birth. Certainly, by the 1960s, , that was a sentiment shared by many—even some of the city's longtime boosters—who bemoaned Philly's shrinking industrial base, slow-moving pace, and soaring murder rate.

But, oh, how times have changed—and those attending the American Library Association's midwinter meeting (January 11–16) in Philadelphia have a lot to look forward to.

Though the City of Brotherly Love is still bedeviled by its share of urban challenges, it's also a happening town with rapidly gentrifying neighborhoods of lovely 18th- and 19th-century row houses. More than 90 museums make Philadelphia an art lover's paradise. A top site, the Barnes Foundation, featuring one of the world's largest collections of Impressionist art, isn't in the city at all; it's located in the nearby suburb of Merion, PA. But keep in mind, the Barnes can be a tough ticket. So order yours well in advance.

Of course, right in Philly, there's Revolutionary-era history galore, the famed Philadelphia Orchestra, and stylish art galleries and shops. What's more, Philadelphia has emerged as one of the country's leading dining destinations. Gone are the days when snapper soup at Bookbinder's reigned as the city's major contribution to gastronomy. Today, local chefs are cutting a wide culinary swath, with intimate dining spots displaying some of the most inventive cooking you'll find anywhere.

Even New Yorkers, who once snubbed the smaller city to the south, are giving Philly another look. In fact, Philly has been dubbed “the sixth borough” as Big Apple migrants snap up Philadelphia's more affordable housing stock.

Philly is a sprawling city with numerous ethnic neighborhoods, but you'll want to concentrate on the area known as Center City. (If you're a Philly native, you're “going to town.”) Put on your walking shoes to explore Center City's roughly 30 blocks stretching from the Delaware River on the east to the Schuylkill River (say, SKOO-kill) on the west, then ranging north to Spring Garden Street and south to South Street.

Broad Street (the equivalent of 14th Street) is the city's main north-south thoroughfare. Addresses are often referred to as “West of Broad” or “East of Broad.” Part of Broad Street has been dubbed the Avenue of the Arts for its theater and musical offerings. (It's the home of the Philadelphia Orchestra, housed in the new Kimmel Center.)

City Hall, which straddles Broad, defines Philadelphia's spiritual center. Within walking distance from the Pennsylvania Convention Center is Old City (you can visit the Liberty Bell at Independence National Historic Park and browse hip art galleries), Society Hill (a charming neighborhood of Colonial-era houses), and Rittenhouse Square (the upscale environ west of Broad). There's also the Philadelphia Museum of Art area, along the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, and South Philadelphia, with its famed Italian Market. Both locales are reachable by taxi or city bus.

Not far from the Convention Center lies the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, the nation's oldest art museum and school of fine arts. Designed by Victorian architect Frank Furness, the ornate building also houses an impressive collection of American masters like Charles Willson Peale and Thomas Eakins. At the Fabric Workshop and Museum on Arch Street, you can watch artists design handmade silk-screen fabrics. Don't miss the gift shop where bolts of one-of-a-kind, brightly patterned fabrics never fail to dazzle.

Next door to the Convention Center is Philly's gift to foodies: the Reading Terminal Market. At this sprawling gastronomic bazaar, dating back to 1893, you'll want to roam and graze, but make a point of indulging in Bassetts' sinfully luscious ice cream. For breakfast, the Down Home Diner is a local favorite, but Metropolitan Bakery, Le Bus, and Olde City Coffee also have their fans. At Tokyo Sushi and Profi's Creperie, you can snag a moderately priced lunch on the run.

Chinatown, just north of the Convention Center, offers some moderately priced dining options, including the Sang Kee Peking Duck House, where the wonton soup is especially praised, and Penang, a Malaysian eatery based in New York.

Northwest of the Convention Center, on Benjamin Franklin Parkway, resides the main branch of the Free Library of Philadelphia. And don't miss the world-class collections of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. At the nearby Rodin Museum, you can ponder the famed sculptor's masterpiece, The Thinker. Science buffs can easily spend an entire day at the renowned Franklin Institute. And on Logan Square, you'll find the Four Seasons Hotel's sedate Fountain Room, a perfect place for lunch.

Lofts, galleries, home décor, and hip clothing shops dot this formerly rundown warehouse district, which is now one of Philly's trendier neighborhoods.

Though you'll miss the January edition of “First Friday,” a monthly event when the area's galleries throw open their doors and a bit of a street party ensues, Old City is still a great place to ramble. The area boasts some 40-plus galleries, most of which are found between Front and Third Streets, and Market and Vine Streets. Stop by the Clay Studio for ceramics; the Wexler Gallery for contemporary glass, ceramics, jewelry, and decorative arts; and the Muse Gallery for contemporary artwork.

For a casual lunch, try Continental, but for foodies, the main attractions are the area's inventive and intimate BYOB (Bring Your Own Bottle) eateries, where patrons can bring along a bottle of wine. Although it's pricey and open only for dinner, tiny Chlöe garners raves from locals. At the eponymous Ansill, in the adjoining Queen Village neighborhood, the daring cooking of Philadelphia-born chef David Ansill wows customers. Try Fork for dishes like crispy striped bass and Kabul, with its well-regarded and authentic Afghan dishes. For Japanese specialties, Morimoto shines. At Buddakan, with its dramatic interior, it's tempting to skip dishes like the wasabi-crusted filet mignon and rush straight to dessert, featuring a unique chocolate bento box.

If you walk south from Old City to an area bounded by Walnut, South, Front and 8th Streets, you'll find yourself in Society Hill, which boasts the country's largest concentration of original 18th- and early-19th-century architecture. For a peek at how the other half once lived, Colonial-style, tour the Powel House or the Hill-Physick-Keith House. And don't neglect Antique Row, where dealers line Pine Street from 9th to Broad Street.

If you're hankering for a taste of Philadelphia elegance (don't forget, Grace Kelly was a native daughter), head for the Rittenhouse Square area.

Begin with a stroll through the square itself, where mothers push strollers and nearby office workers take lunch. For shopping, there are elegant women's fashion boutiques like Suzanne Roberts, Knit Wit, and Joan Shepp. The friendly folks at Kitchen Kapers will help you locate that hard-to-find kitchen gadget, and Bead Heaven stocks a full array of beads and related items.

While you're in the area, don't miss the bizarre Mütter Museum, which houses 20,000 medical oddities, including 139 skulls and the skeleton of a 7-foot-6-inch giant. And no book lover should miss the Rosenbach Museum, which features 30,000 rare books and manuscripts, as well as drawings and manuscripts by children's book author Maurice Sendak.

For a post-museum pick-me-up, head for La Colombe for outstanding coffee, or to Miel Patisserie for excellent pastries. Nearby Tuscany Café is good for a light lunch. The area also boasts high-end establishments like Le Bec-Fin, with its classic French fare; Café Perrier, Le Bec-Fin's somewhat less pricey offspring; and Caffe Casta Diva for Italian. At Matyson, you can enjoy expertly prepared dishes like braised lamb shanks. Vetri's new Italian cuisine has garnered all kinds of plaudits.

Want to channel Dick Clark? Then hop in a cab and head for South Philly, home of American Bandstand and much of the city's Italian population.

Your first stop should be one of the area's famed cheesesteak (yes, it's all one word, and don't call it a Philadelphia cheesesteak) emporiums. Philadelphians endlessly debate their favorite purveyor. Some like Geno's. Others like Pat's. (These longtime competitors are situated directly across the street from each other, so you can conduct your own face-off.) Then there's John's Roast Pork. One tip: be sure to order this symphony of grease topped with plenty of fried onions and peppers—and don't forget the “Whiz,” as Cheese Whiz is called in these parts.

If you've still got room, head for the Italian Market. There you'll find specialty food purveyors Claudio's and Di Bruno Brothers (also located on Chestnut Street near Rittenhouse Square), Talluto's for homemade pasta, and the fragrant Spice Corner. For a traditional red-sauce Italian meal, Ralph's and Villa de Roma are old favorites, while Anastasi Seafood prepares impossibly plump crab cakes.

It used to be that Philly rolled up the sidewalks after dark. But these days there are plenty of nightlife options.

In early January, many local theaters will be dark, but the Philadelphia Orchestra will be staging a Bernstein Festival, with excerpts from West Side Story.

For more sizzle, try Chris' Jazz Café or Ortlieb's Jazzhaus or World Cafe Live, a hip new spot near the University of Pennsylvania's campus, across the Schuylkill River in West Philly.